Anyone for an “aperitivo”?

An experience that I have come to enjoy in Italy is one that can be had any day between 5.00 and 7.00 p.m., that of an “aperitivo” (or what we would call an aperitif).  Walk into any bar between those hours, and they will be ready for you J An aperitivo is served with at the very least, a small bowl of crisps, another with maybe peanuts and even a third with another snack such as olives.  In a bowl of peanuts a teaspoon is added so that customers can scoop a few nuts into their hand and so makes sharing a much more hygienic experience when there are several of you together.  

What is an aperitif?  In short, a before dinner snackette, an appetiser if you will.  Here in Italy it can be something like a Crodino, or a San Bitter, or maybe Campari an Aperol or Prosecco or any other small (almost non- alcoholic) drink.  However for me, it’s the foodie bits that are served with the aperitivo that are always a source of anticipation and delight (and occasionally it must be admitted disappointment too).   You just never know what you are going to get; tiny pieces of pizza, miniscule sandwiches, or little bites of filled pastry.  Sometimes just seeing them laid out on a bar table (buffet style is not unheard of) is enough to make your mouth water.  Recently a new bar opened near where we live, and Vito and I went there a couple of weeks ago to try out their aperitivo.  Unfortunately it was only 3.30 p.m. and we were too early, so had to settle for crisps, olives and the apologies of the staff.  This Saturday we decided to try our luck again.  Well it was definitely worth the wait.  We sat at a table outside the bar, which is situated in a quiet back street, as first our drinks arrived followed shortly after by these.  

Turning the plate with the bowl of crisps on it, I found two additional bowls full of couscous.  The pieces of toast (bruschetta) had things like a spinach and cheese mix on top while another had sun-dried tomatoes.  We were also served slices of fine flaky pastry filled with mushrooms and slices of cheese.  Vito commented that all the food was vegetarian although we hadn’t made any special request. 

Then we saw at a neighbouring table, grissini with cooked ham twisted around them had been served, so we came to the conclusion that different selections are given to all their customers.  One thing that all customers had in common though was their reaction on being presented with this mini feast.

“WOW!!!”

And all for 4 Euro per head including the drink.  

Double Wow!!

Variety is the spice of life

I was talking to my neighbour (the one who always helped out with "er upstairs" endless conveyor belt of kittens) and she told me she'd seen another female with a full tum parading on her back wall this week. We agreed we hoped it stayed on the other side, however it put me in mind of other kittens which had passed through our doors over the years.  Most of the kittens "er upstairs" produced were sweet but pretty ordinary looking, but there was one litter where she excelled herself.  They were all absolutely beautiful.

They all went to very good homes but this time I told Vito I wanted to keep one.  Up till then we'd never chosen any of our animals - they sort of chose us.  This one was different.  I said to Vito I felt outnumbered living with three male cats, two male dogs and a husband. I wanted another woman in the house.  He didn't argue as he was probably more besotted than I was and it's not hard to see why.

She is a true female puss tat.  Incredibly independent, she can be just as demanding as her mother who she takes after in vocal terms at mealtimes.  Unlike our male cats she's very delicate and light.  We watch entranced as she gracefully chases after something whether it be a toy ball, or on one horrific occasion, a garden snake!   Definitely spicy (hence her name Chili) she is always (sometimes too much so) thrilling to watch, but the thing about her that amuses me most is the variety of places she finds to sit and sleep.   Sometimes she looks sooooo uncomfortable I don't know how she does it.

She's the only one of our cats that does this

and she sleeps in the strangest positions

and places.

 She hides in places you would expect to find a puss tat hiding  

and not such obvious places!

As I write she's curled up on the desk behind my computer.  We've taken in another female cat since her arrival (as well as her mother who she hates with a passion and attacks whenever she sees her) but every time I speak to her I find myself repeating the same thing over and over - and I mean it.

You are just soooooo pretty!!!!!!!

What's a borgo?

Something I never knew about before I came to live here and which I absolutely love are "borghi".   Judging by the reaction of many visitors we have taken to see one, they are not necessarily common knowledge so I thought you might like to know a little about them.

So, what is a borgo?  Drive anywhere in Italy and you can’t help coming across a borgo (borghi pl.) or several!  There are countless numbers in Italy, which can be found anywhere, perched on top of hills, bursting into view as your car rounds a bend in a road, or in the centre of major cities. 

Built in medieval times, although some foundations hail back to the days of the ancient Romans or even the Etruscans before them, borghi are essentially fortified villages.  In medieval times Italy was not a united country but a mass of independent states.  Land was highly prized and rich landowners fought regularly for control of it.  The local “Lord of the Manor” owned his borgo which he ran pretty independent of other considerations.  The lord lived in a castle protected by high walls.  Villages grew up at the foot of the castles and were encompassed by these same walls.  Although when visiting a borgo you find each has its own unique “flavour”, mostly all have fortified walls, a castle, a church and a market place in common.

Borghi for the most part are incredibly picturesque; some have centuries old buildings now decrepit and falling down, others are bright and buzzy, hot tourist spots. Yet others are renowned for being romantic or for their spectacular views over the countryside. Some are actually lived in, some are part used.   Wherever you go in Italy you can be sure to find at least one or two not too far away. 

Here are a few of pictures of the borgo at Pratica Di Mare just south of Rome.  The local landowner is reputed to live in the castle hidden in the thick walls, while locals and visitors to the area meet at the popular local eating places there, or buy specialty foods at a small (could stay in here forever!) shop.  The building in the photo at the top of this page shows the entrance, which is being renovated.  This borgo is part lived in and used and part derelict.  For all that is has its charm.